Growing plants from seed is fun.
We need to remember when we are in the garden it is supposed to be enjoyable. We get to choose what kinds of plants we want to grow from seed and experiment with different varieties. Watching the tiny little sprout emerge from the soil, it’s so fragile, and it depends on you for its survival to grow into a large, mature plant. Whether it is vegetables, annuals, or perennials growing plants from seed is a wonderful and rewarding process.
Getting Started
Choosing seeds: If you are new to growing plants from seed, start out with a few varieties so as not to become overwhelmed. Easy to grow plants like marigolds and basil, are almost guaranteed to succeed. But, if you want to feel like a true gardening hero, try growing some zinnias from seed. There are a bunch of different colors and sizes of zinnias, and they are so easy to grow. You can really have a lot of fun with them.
Where to buy seeds: There are thousands of seeds to buy. I like to go to my local gardening center or nursery, and just browse their seed racks. Or you can order seed catalogs, and get them in the mail. Just be warned, once you order one catalog the seed catalog industry will know about you, and you will get all the seed catalogs. Another option is to browse through Amazon.
When to plant seeds: Know the average last frost date for your area, because you don’t want to plant too early outside only to have mother nature thwart your efforts (which she will do anyway from time to time). Seed packets have instructions on the back that will say something like; “start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before average last frost date.” You can just Google the average last frost date for your area and then count backward so you know when to start your seeds.
Follow instructions: Every plant is different, so be sure to read the seed packet instructions. Some seeds need to be soaked, nicked or even cold stratified in order to germinate. Read how to cold stratify in my growing milk weed from seed post. Planting depth matters too. Some seeds need to be covered in various depths of soil, and some, such as petunias, need light to germinate, so you have to surface sow the seed. Pay attention to germination time, because some seeds sprout in a few days, while others can take a couple of weeks.
Gathering Supplies
When growing plants from seed indoors, we need to control the environment. Plants have the basic needs of light, water, soil, and nutrients.
Seed trays and containers: There are a few types of containers to choose from. I like the biodegradable kind, because they make me feel better about reducing my plastic consumption, and they can be planted directly into the soil when it’s time to plant. A tray that holds the containers is nice because it prevents water from leaking out everywhere when watering the plants. Also, upcycled containers like old milk jugs or cartons, egg cartons, or an old lettuce cloche can be used for seed starting containers.
Grow lights: Plants need consistent light. When growing plants from seed indoors, it’s difficult to achieve consistent light without the aid of grow lights. Typically plants will need 12-16 hours of light per day, so I use a light timer, because I don’t want to have to remember to plug and unplug the grow lights. There are many different sizes of grow lights for large or small spaces. If you are a beginner it can be helpful to try a seed starting kit.
Heat mat: A specialized heat mat will give your seedlings a consistent warm temperature to aid in seed germination and growth. Especially if you are like me, and you start your seeds in a cooler basement environment. Again, a seed starting kit will be helpful.
Soil: The best type of soil for starting seeds indoors is a specialized seed starting mix. A seed starting mix is finer and more porous allowing for good drainage. Seeds and seedlings don’t like to be soggy, because they will just sit in the soggy soil and rot.
Planting Seeds
It’s time for the fun part, planting! Try a gardening journal to log when you started seeds and to plan your outdoor spaces.
Prepare your soil: Pre-moisten the seed starting mix with lukewarm water. I like to use a five gallon bucket for this that you can get at any home improvement store. Then fill your pots or cells with soil and gently press down. Leave room at the top to add any additional soil as needed.
Sow seeds: Place a few seeds in each cell or pot to improve chances at least one will germinate. Read the back of the seed packet to know how deep to plant the seeds. Sprinkle more soil on top of the seeds to achieve the proper depth. Gently press down and mist with water. I like to use a one gallon sprayer with an adjustable nozzle. Just make sure you adjust the nozzle for the proper spray pattern before misting your pots.
Label: Get yourself some plant labels and write the plant variety on each pot or flat of pots. This will save you some confusion later.
Cover: Seed planting kits will come with a dome to cover the tray of seedlings. It acts like a little greenhouse to hold in the moisture, and reduces the need for frequent watering. Just keep an eye on the soil, and watch for white mold growing on the surface. If the mold starts to appear, remove the dome for long periods to increase the ventilation. The dome should only be kept on until the seedlings have emerged and produced their first two leaves.
Caring for Seedlings
Light: Position the grow lights about 2-3 inches above the seedlings. Too close and you can burn the leaves, turning them brown or yellow. Too far away and your plants will become leggy, because they are stretching for the light.
Water: Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Don’t allow the soil to dry out, because this will prevent your seeds from germinating. The first watering may not be needed until after the seedlings have emerged, with the aid of the dome.
Ventilate: Once the seedlings have emerged they like to have airflow. This helps prevent fungal growth on the soil, which can kill the plant, and I believe it helps strengthen the stems. To achieve proper airflow I use a small oscillating fan set on low, at a fair distance, for a couple hours a day.
Thin seedlings: When more than one plant starts to grow in each pot or cell, it’s time to thin. Simply choose the plant you think looks the strongest, and gently pull out the rest. You don’t want the plants competing for water, nutrients and space, because this will make them weaker.
Harden off the plants: To harden off means to acclimate the plants to the outdoor environment. Hardening off is a gradual process.
- About 7-10 days before transplanting, place seedlings outside in a shaded, wind protected area for a couple of hours.
- Gradually increase exposure. Each day increase the time spent outdoors by 1-2 hours, slowly introducing more direct sunlight.
- Avoid extreme weather like strong wind, heavy rain, or cold snaps.
- Leave them outside overnight after about 5 days if nighttime temperatures are above 50 degrees F
If you don’t want to do such an involved hardening off process, I think it’s okay to just put your plants outside in a protected area for a few days before planting. Again, just watch the weather and avoid harsh conditions.
Planting
Once your plants have been hardened off they are ready for planting in their outdoor location. Be sure to water your plants before and after planting. Use a gentle shower watering wand. Avoid planting at the hottest part of the day, evenings are the best to reduce stress on the plant.
That’s it! It sounds like a lot, but it really isn’t. Growing plants from seed is very enjoyable and a rewarding endeavor. Even if you only grow a few plants, in the summer you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you grew them from seed.
Check out my post on how to grow milkweed from seed for the Monarch butterfly
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